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The practical guide to patternmaking for fashion designers : juniors, misses, and women /

By: Publication details: New York : Fairchild, 2005.Description: xvi, 488 pages : illustrations ; 32 cmISBN:
  • 1563673282
  • 9781563673283
Subject(s):
Contents:
Introduction to patternmaking : Patternmaking for the fashion industry ; Key terms ; Fabric grainlines ; Pattern grainlines ; Marker ; Pattern labeling ; Seam allowance ; Hem allowance ; Pattern marking ; Grading a size range ; Tools and equipment used in patternmaking ; Notions -- Taking measurements, body forms, and live models : Checklist for taking measurements ; Preparing the body form ; Preparing live models ; Upper torso measurements ; Arm measurements ; Lower torso and leg measurements ; Size charts for junior's, misses', and women's sizes -- Drafting the sloper set : Checklist for drafting the sloper set : General instructions ; Drafting the bodice for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the fitted set-in sleeve for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the two-dart skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the one-dart skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the two-dart trouser for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the one-dart trouser for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Test fitting the sloper set and creating the two-dart front bodice -- Draping the sloper set : Checklist for draping the sloper set ; General instructions ; Preparing the body form ; BLocking muslin ; Two-dart bodice for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Two-dart skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Checking the trued bodice and skirt drapes on the form ; Transferring the trued drapes onto paper ; Final truing of bodice and skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes -- Dart manipulation for bodices, sleeves, and skirts : Front bodice with shoulder tip dart and center front waist dart ; Front bodice with neck and waist darts ; Back bodice with neck and waist darts ; Front bodice with converging center front darts ; Sleeve with two elbow darts ; Front skirt with inverted V darts ; Front skirt with horizontal side seam darts ; Curved dart dress ; Pattern chart for [curved dart dress] ; Specification sheets for [curved dart dress] -- Collar and neckline theory and development : Recreating the proportions of a design sketch ; Bateau neckline, bodice with intersecting curved darts ; Funnel neckline, bodice with neck darts ; Tie collar, bodice with center front darts and placket ; Straight rolled collar, bodice with zip front and French darts ; One-shoulder neckline, bodice with contoured darts ; Sailor collar with asymmetrical button-front bodice ; Pattern chart for [sailor collar with asymmetrical button-front bodice] -- Sleeve theory and development : Dartless sleeve sloper ; Petal sleeve ; Dropped shoulder sleeve and bodice ; Long sleeve with upper cap combined with bodice ; Square armhole sleeve and bodice ; Modified kimono bodice with gussets ; Dolman sleeve, dartless wraparound top ; Pattern chart for [Dolman sleeve] -- Dart equivalents as stylelines, gathers, pleats, and release tucks : Bodice with square neckline and release tucks ; Bodice with armhole princess styleline, sweetheart neckline, and cap sleeves ; Bodice with yoke, gathers, shawl collar, and short sleeves ; Bodice with stand collar, bare shoulders, and bust-level styleline ; Bodice with front yoke, back pleats, raglan sleeves, and convertible collar ; Skirt with gathered waist, kick pleat, waistband, and back zipper ; Skirt with stitched pleats, fly front, front insert pockets, back double piping pockets, and cuffs ; Pattern chart for [trouser with stitched pleats] -- Added fullness and flares, and added ease : Top with two layers, flared with uneven hem ; Blouse with gathered front, buttoned placket, and short puffed sleeves with control lining ; Blouse with long full gathered sleeves, flared cuff flounces, peplum and collar ; Flared skirt, waist finished with inside facing ; Circle skirt and waistband ; Half-circle skirt ; Pant, pull-on with low crotch and double elastic waistband ; Jumpsuit, double-breasted, wide flat collar, and inverted box pleats ; Pattern chart for [jumpsuit] -- The torso sloper and its uses : Torso sloper ; Shirt with box pleats and sleeve placket ; Shirt, oversized, with hidden button placket, buttoned tabs, belt, and inseam pockets ; Vest, fitted with flat collar ; Skirt with high waist and insert pockets ; Dress with short kimono sleeves and empire waist ; Dress with modified cape collar, low waist, and handkerchief hem ; Traditional kimono ; Pattern chart for [traditional kimono].
The jacket sloper and its uses : Jacket sloper: front, back, and sleeve ; Jacket sloper, separate bodice, and skirt ; Bolero with leg-of-mutton sleeves ; Portrait lapel jacket, panel stylelines, and front ties ; Bomber jacket, hidden zipper closure, elastic-cased waist, epaulets and pouch pockets with flaps ; Single-breasted jacket with low notched lapel, two-piece sleeves, welt pockets, vents and bound buttonholes ; Pattern chart for [single-breasted jacket -- The coat sloper and its uses : Coat sloper: front, back, and sleeve ; Long coat, patch pockets, button tabs, back vent and modified shawl collar ; Pea coat, double breasted, modified design with flared back and adjustable back belt ; Cape with over-the-shoulder yoke, knife pleats, and loose hood -- The dartless jean sloper and its uses : Dartless jean sloper ; Runner's shorts ; Capri pants with low-rise waistline ; Jeans with slim fit, five pockets, tapered legs, and zippered ankles ; Sailor pants -- Special body forms, live models, and contoured styles : Additional measurements needed for contoured styles ; Halter top with contoured bra cups ; Gown, flattened bust with boning in bodice, and three separate tiers on skirt ; Gown, off-the-shoulder, pleated collar, boning and padding, skirt with godets and train -- Patterns for fabric used on the bias grainline : Flat patterned bias torso sloper ; Draped bias torso sloper ; Bias camisole with separate cowl front ; Bias top with cowl collar, short cowl drape sleeves, and hip band ; Bias skirt with trumpet hem ; Bias slip dress with low back and crisscross spaghetti straps -- Patterns for fabrics that stretch : Knit torso sloper flat patterned: front, back, and sleeve, for 50-percent stretch fabric in width, only ; Knit torso sloper drape: front and back, for 50-percent stretch fabric in width, only ; Classic tee shirt with crew neck in ribbing ; Knit shirt with raglan sleeves, shoulder pads, V neck, and cuffs in ribbing ; Knit full-length bodysuit sloper draft: front, back, and sleeve for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Mid-thigh-length bodysuit with U-front neck, racer back, and empire seam ; Knit legging sloper flat patterned: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Knit legging sloper drape: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Leggings with waistband folded over 1 1/2-inch wide elastic and stirrups ; Knit leotard sloper flat patterned: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Knit leotard sloper drape: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Bikini, bra top and bottoms with slide string front ; Triangle bikini string top ; Swimsuit with bare tummy and interlocking bro fronts -- Patterns for fabrics that shrink : Garment wash/dye: cotton twill jacket with exposed zipper front, drawstring waist, elasticized cuffs, and side seam welt pockets ; Garment steam/shrunk: silk chiffon shrug with ruffles -- Linings : Lining for trouser with stitched pleats, fly front, pockets and cuffs ; Lining for skirt with high waist, insert pockets, and kick pleat ; Lining for single-breasted jacket with notched lapel -- Knockoff pattern techniques : Method 1. Take the garment apart at the seams and trace ; Method 2. Lay a sewn garment onto paper and trace ; Method 3. Draft a pattern by taking measurements from a sewn garment -- Production pattern techniques : Single-breasted jacket, including lining ; Pattern chart for [single-breasted jacket] -- Appendix A. Quarter-scale sloper set for misses' size twelve -- Appendix B. Metric conversion chart -- Appendix C. Fractions of inches to decimal point chart -- Appendix D. French curve -- Appendix E. Sample pattern chart -- Appendix F. Sample specification sheets -- Glossary.
Summary: Offers an in-depth look into the techniques and theories of pattern drafting for women's garments. Useful for a wide range of pattern courses from introductory to advanced.
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Item type Current library Collection Call number Copy number Status Date due Barcode
Book Book Whitecliffe Library School of Fashion + Sustainability - Auckland General TT 520 KNO - HELD IN FASHION DEPT. (Browse shelf(Opens below)) 1 Not for Loan - Ask Fashion + Sustainability Lecturers 0010637

Includes index.

Introduction to patternmaking : Patternmaking for the fashion industry ; Key terms ; Fabric grainlines ; Pattern grainlines ; Marker ; Pattern labeling ; Seam allowance ; Hem allowance ; Pattern marking ; Grading a size range ; Tools and equipment used in patternmaking ; Notions -- Taking measurements, body forms, and live models : Checklist for taking measurements ; Preparing the body form ; Preparing live models ; Upper torso measurements ; Arm measurements ; Lower torso and leg measurements ; Size charts for junior's, misses', and women's sizes -- Drafting the sloper set : Checklist for drafting the sloper set : General instructions ; Drafting the bodice for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the fitted set-in sleeve for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the two-dart skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the one-dart skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the two-dart trouser for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Drafting the one-dart trouser for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Test fitting the sloper set and creating the two-dart front bodice -- Draping the sloper set : Checklist for draping the sloper set ; General instructions ; Preparing the body form ; BLocking muslin ; Two-dart bodice for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Two-dart skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes ; Checking the trued bodice and skirt drapes on the form ; Transferring the trued drapes onto paper ; Final truing of bodice and skirt for junior's, misses', and women's sizes -- Dart manipulation for bodices, sleeves, and skirts : Front bodice with shoulder tip dart and center front waist dart ; Front bodice with neck and waist darts ; Back bodice with neck and waist darts ; Front bodice with converging center front darts ; Sleeve with two elbow darts ; Front skirt with inverted V darts ; Front skirt with horizontal side seam darts ; Curved dart dress ; Pattern chart for [curved dart dress] ; Specification sheets for [curved dart dress] -- Collar and neckline theory and development : Recreating the proportions of a design sketch ; Bateau neckline, bodice with intersecting curved darts ; Funnel neckline, bodice with neck darts ; Tie collar, bodice with center front darts and placket ; Straight rolled collar, bodice with zip front and French darts ; One-shoulder neckline, bodice with contoured darts ; Sailor collar with asymmetrical button-front bodice ; Pattern chart for [sailor collar with asymmetrical button-front bodice] -- Sleeve theory and development : Dartless sleeve sloper ; Petal sleeve ; Dropped shoulder sleeve and bodice ; Long sleeve with upper cap combined with bodice ; Square armhole sleeve and bodice ; Modified kimono bodice with gussets ; Dolman sleeve, dartless wraparound top ; Pattern chart for [Dolman sleeve] -- Dart equivalents as stylelines, gathers, pleats, and release tucks : Bodice with square neckline and release tucks ; Bodice with armhole princess styleline, sweetheart neckline, and cap sleeves ; Bodice with yoke, gathers, shawl collar, and short sleeves ; Bodice with stand collar, bare shoulders, and bust-level styleline ; Bodice with front yoke, back pleats, raglan sleeves, and convertible collar ; Skirt with gathered waist, kick pleat, waistband, and back zipper ; Skirt with stitched pleats, fly front, front insert pockets, back double piping pockets, and cuffs ; Pattern chart for [trouser with stitched pleats] -- Added fullness and flares, and added ease : Top with two layers, flared with uneven hem ; Blouse with gathered front, buttoned placket, and short puffed sleeves with control lining ; Blouse with long full gathered sleeves, flared cuff flounces, peplum and collar ; Flared skirt, waist finished with inside facing ; Circle skirt and waistband ; Half-circle skirt ; Pant, pull-on with low crotch and double elastic waistband ; Jumpsuit, double-breasted, wide flat collar, and inverted box pleats ; Pattern chart for [jumpsuit] -- The torso sloper and its uses : Torso sloper ; Shirt with box pleats and sleeve placket ; Shirt, oversized, with hidden button placket, buttoned tabs, belt, and inseam pockets ; Vest, fitted with flat collar ; Skirt with high waist and insert pockets ; Dress with short kimono sleeves and empire waist ; Dress with modified cape collar, low waist, and handkerchief hem ; Traditional kimono ; Pattern chart for [traditional kimono].

The jacket sloper and its uses : Jacket sloper: front, back, and sleeve ; Jacket sloper, separate bodice, and skirt ; Bolero with leg-of-mutton sleeves ; Portrait lapel jacket, panel stylelines, and front ties ; Bomber jacket, hidden zipper closure, elastic-cased waist, epaulets and pouch pockets with flaps ; Single-breasted jacket with low notched lapel, two-piece sleeves, welt pockets, vents and bound buttonholes ; Pattern chart for [single-breasted jacket -- The coat sloper and its uses : Coat sloper: front, back, and sleeve ; Long coat, patch pockets, button tabs, back vent and modified shawl collar ; Pea coat, double breasted, modified design with flared back and adjustable back belt ; Cape with over-the-shoulder yoke, knife pleats, and loose hood -- The dartless jean sloper and its uses : Dartless jean sloper ; Runner's shorts ; Capri pants with low-rise waistline ; Jeans with slim fit, five pockets, tapered legs, and zippered ankles ; Sailor pants -- Special body forms, live models, and contoured styles : Additional measurements needed for contoured styles ; Halter top with contoured bra cups ; Gown, flattened bust with boning in bodice, and three separate tiers on skirt ; Gown, off-the-shoulder, pleated collar, boning and padding, skirt with godets and train -- Patterns for fabric used on the bias grainline : Flat patterned bias torso sloper ; Draped bias torso sloper ; Bias camisole with separate cowl front ; Bias top with cowl collar, short cowl drape sleeves, and hip band ; Bias skirt with trumpet hem ; Bias slip dress with low back and crisscross spaghetti straps -- Patterns for fabrics that stretch : Knit torso sloper flat patterned: front, back, and sleeve, for 50-percent stretch fabric in width, only ; Knit torso sloper drape: front and back, for 50-percent stretch fabric in width, only ; Classic tee shirt with crew neck in ribbing ; Knit shirt with raglan sleeves, shoulder pads, V neck, and cuffs in ribbing ; Knit full-length bodysuit sloper draft: front, back, and sleeve for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Mid-thigh-length bodysuit with U-front neck, racer back, and empire seam ; Knit legging sloper flat patterned: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Knit legging sloper drape: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Leggings with waistband folded over 1 1/2-inch wide elastic and stirrups ; Knit leotard sloper flat patterned: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Knit leotard sloper drape: front and back for 100-percent stretch fabric in width and length ; Bikini, bra top and bottoms with slide string front ; Triangle bikini string top ; Swimsuit with bare tummy and interlocking bro fronts -- Patterns for fabrics that shrink : Garment wash/dye: cotton twill jacket with exposed zipper front, drawstring waist, elasticized cuffs, and side seam welt pockets ; Garment steam/shrunk: silk chiffon shrug with ruffles -- Linings : Lining for trouser with stitched pleats, fly front, pockets and cuffs ; Lining for skirt with high waist, insert pockets, and kick pleat ; Lining for single-breasted jacket with notched lapel -- Knockoff pattern techniques : Method 1. Take the garment apart at the seams and trace ; Method 2. Lay a sewn garment onto paper and trace ; Method 3. Draft a pattern by taking measurements from a sewn garment -- Production pattern techniques : Single-breasted jacket, including lining ; Pattern chart for [single-breasted jacket] -- Appendix A. Quarter-scale sloper set for misses' size twelve -- Appendix B. Metric conversion chart -- Appendix C. Fractions of inches to decimal point chart -- Appendix D. French curve -- Appendix E. Sample pattern chart -- Appendix F. Sample specification sheets -- Glossary.

Offers an in-depth look into the techniques and theories of pattern drafting for women's garments. Useful for a wide range of pattern courses from introductory to advanced.

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